After reviewing this Six Moon Designs Lunar Duo tent... we decided this is definitely the way we are going to go with our tent choice. Please watch this video review and let me know if you have any comments or questions.
Friday, December 31, 2010
Thursday, December 30, 2010
Video Review - TarpTent Double Rainbow
Just processed this video review. Feel free to comment if you have any questions or comments:
Topic Discussion - What type of shelter?
In choosing shelters there were a few options. Originally we have an MSR Hubba Hubba freestanding double walled tent. It is awesome, but at about 5 lbs, even splitting it is a large weight cost.
With 2 doors, 1 pole, and a bombproof 3 season tent... this is a great choice for many. It was very dependable when I needed it. But this was not to be the choice for our Applachian Trail hike. It is a freestanding tent made out of really durable materials. We used this tent for 2 years before this, and travelled Europe with it for 7 months. Yet when the seal tape started to peal on the back of the vestibule, we contacted MSR and they just replaced it. Now that is awesome service. However, that won't carry the weight 2100 miles to Maine.
Next was the Henry Shires Tarptent Double Rainbow. At 38 oz., it is really light. With a Tyvek footprint and a liner added to help with condensation the weight went up a little more. Probably close to 45 oz. overall. This tent is a single walled combination of a tarp and a tent. It is not freestanding but can be setup as freestanding. Check out more details here.
The next choice was the Six Moon Designs Lunar Duo. This is not a freestanding tent. This tent requires hiking poles. It requires stakes to keep it standing and is not nearly as wind worthy as the 2 previous contestants. But that does not make it a worthy adversary. It is roomy, enough that 4 adults could play cards inside. It is lightweight, weighing 39 oz. with tent body and poles. The hiking poles that are required to make it stand up are separate from that weight, but since my wife plans to hike with the poles, we should use them if they are there. This is a single walled setup as well. But we really really like it. Based on a recommendation from my genius friend Aaron, we ordered it. Check out the link to Six Moon Designs site here.
With 2 doors, 1 pole, and a bombproof 3 season tent... this is a great choice for many. It was very dependable when I needed it. But this was not to be the choice for our Applachian Trail hike. It is a freestanding tent made out of really durable materials. We used this tent for 2 years before this, and travelled Europe with it for 7 months. Yet when the seal tape started to peal on the back of the vestibule, we contacted MSR and they just replaced it. Now that is awesome service. However, that won't carry the weight 2100 miles to Maine.
Next was the Henry Shires Tarptent Double Rainbow. At 38 oz., it is really light. With a Tyvek footprint and a liner added to help with condensation the weight went up a little more. Probably close to 45 oz. overall. This tent is a single walled combination of a tarp and a tent. It is not freestanding but can be setup as freestanding. Check out more details here.
The next choice was the Six Moon Designs Lunar Duo. This is not a freestanding tent. This tent requires hiking poles. It requires stakes to keep it standing and is not nearly as wind worthy as the 2 previous contestants. But that does not make it a worthy adversary. It is roomy, enough that 4 adults could play cards inside. It is lightweight, weighing 39 oz. with tent body and poles. The hiking poles that are required to make it stand up are separate from that weight, but since my wife plans to hike with the poles, we should use them if they are there. This is a single walled setup as well. But we really really like it. Based on a recommendation from my genius friend Aaron, we ordered it. Check out the link to Six Moon Designs site here.
Videos about the 2 candidates will be posted shortly after in the next 2 posts.
Sleeping Bag UPDATE
Well... I went camping over the Xmas holiday weekend. Turns out, my sleeping bag is just not what I thought it might be. It left me cold and uncomfortable. In the end... I just warm up water and toss it in the stainless steel canteen and into my sleeping bag to keep warm. But Annette and I were both uncomfortable in a manner of speaking. She more from the cold than I was. Nothing life threatening, however, my version of uncomfortable came from what to expect on the trail and what cold nights might lie ahead if I did not get a quick hold on a new sleeping system.
We spent the next 2 days, and I mean the whole 2 days pondering what sleeping bag we wanted to buy. First we started out with lower rated bags. We reviewed using our current bag as a summer bag and buying a 0 bag for the start of the trail. We went round and round on different bag builds and different manufacturers. We looked at 800 Down, 650 Down, and even synthetic to review our options. Higher down means more $$, and synthetic means big time savings. However, synthetic means big time weight problems, and down means weight and volume savings. Round and round we went... until we reached one manufacturer whose reputation could not be more perfect, more solid, made in the USA, and with the highest quality and standards that apparently exist in this market for the past 30+ years.
Western Mountaineering from San Jose, CA was our choice. We reviewed and reviewed the options and bag types they have. They have a large batch of options and we wanted to check them out. In the end... we went with the ULTRALITE 20 degree Fahrenheit model. You can see the bag properties HERE. Also the photos compared to our old bag are below. Now please remember, this is not a perfect comparison. Not only is the Western Mountaineering bag exceptionally well made, with killer nice down, but it is 20 degree bag. Our old bag is a 30 degree bag. You can check out that information on our previous post here.
If you take a look at the Western Mountaineering on the right hand side of the above picture, you see that it is FULL, and STOUT. The Montbell bag has a sewn through construction which inherently leads to overall heat loss. Sewn through construction is the green color sketch. You can see how the stitching creates low spots that allow the heat through. While the continuous baffles allow for consistent height throughout the bag.
To read more about how this technology affects warmth, check out this link.
Another issue that I had was the way that the bag hit the bridge of my nose when I close it down in mummy fashion around my face to stay warm when the temps dipped. Now keep in mind on this trip it was in the low 20s, maybe even 20. So this well exceeded the allowable temperature rating for this bag. We had taken a few extras along and that sleep system will be reviewed in the next few posts in regards to our insulation clothing.
Just to take a notice to what is called the draft tube. This is the tube that runs the zipper. It is a tube running parallel to the zipper that keeps draft from coming through and stealing warmth. The Montbell draft tube is very small... about the size of 50 cent piece or close to it.
The Western Mountaineering has 2 types of draft tubes. One that is about twice the size of the Montbell, and runs down the zipper line. The other runs perpendicular to the zipper and goes around the back of your neck and the front of your neck. This tube is nearly 3" or close in diameter. It is seriously amazing stuff. If you see the black line running along the blue tubing... that is the draft collar, as they call it. The black line on the draft collar is the draw sting. The genius for me lies in the fact that you can cinch down the draft collar itself to keep air from coming in from the top. While the draft tube along the zipper keeps the zipper warm.
In this above photo you can see a great shot of the draft collar and the head portion of the bag. What I really love about the head portion of the bag is the way the other cinch device lets me close the bag around my face. With the Montbell, I only got 1 cinch cord and when I got it down real tight around my face, it hit the bridge of my nose, and was very uncomfortable. I would deal with it... because staying warm is better... and it was not that bad... but annoying. So when I tried the second cinch cord on the Western Mountaineering bag... this changed my view of what it means to close yourself up in the bag. This one hovers nearly 1 inch above my actual face. This action caused my face to be surrounded by soft down and as the face cinch cord closed down... it close around my face... almost literally framing my face. But regardless of this, the cord hovered above my face and did not hit the bridge of my nose. For me... genius.
No draft collar and for the most part... very small draft tube on the above Montbell.
The true difference in down amounts is that the Montbell has 10 oz of down and the Western Mountaineering has 16 oz of down. The bag came with a stuff sack, a large blue linen sack with the company name on it, and a nice sticker that is now on my netbook. So everywhere I go, people see that looking back at a proud owner.
On some things in life, you just down skimp... please if you are reading this because you are going to buy a sleeping bag. At least order your top choice & the Western Mountaineering. Put them side by side, and I bet you choose the Western Mountaineering. Are they expensive? YES. But if you take care of your equipment, I truly believe in this instance, it will take care of you for years and YEARS.
We spent the next 2 days, and I mean the whole 2 days pondering what sleeping bag we wanted to buy. First we started out with lower rated bags. We reviewed using our current bag as a summer bag and buying a 0 bag for the start of the trail. We went round and round on different bag builds and different manufacturers. We looked at 800 Down, 650 Down, and even synthetic to review our options. Higher down means more $$, and synthetic means big time savings. However, synthetic means big time weight problems, and down means weight and volume savings. Round and round we went... until we reached one manufacturer whose reputation could not be more perfect, more solid, made in the USA, and with the highest quality and standards that apparently exist in this market for the past 30+ years.
Western Mountaineering from San Jose, CA was our choice. We reviewed and reviewed the options and bag types they have. They have a large batch of options and we wanted to check them out. In the end... we went with the ULTRALITE 20 degree Fahrenheit model. You can see the bag properties HERE. Also the photos compared to our old bag are below. Now please remember, this is not a perfect comparison. Not only is the Western Mountaineering bag exceptionally well made, with killer nice down, but it is 20 degree bag. Our old bag is a 30 degree bag. You can check out that information on our previous post here.
To read more about how this technology affects warmth, check out this link.
On some things in life, you just down skimp... please if you are reading this because you are going to buy a sleeping bag. At least order your top choice & the Western Mountaineering. Put them side by side, and I bet you choose the Western Mountaineering. Are they expensive? YES. But if you take care of your equipment, I truly believe in this instance, it will take care of you for years and YEARS.
Thursday, December 23, 2010
Video Review - New Thermarest Neoair Trekker sleeping pad
I woke up this morning to a knock on the door. The UPS man brought me my new Thermarest Neoair Trekker in size regular. Thermarest is not even showing this item on their website yet. Probably not until after the beginning of the year. That is what the buzz on the net is saying. But I got it at Campmor.com and it was a great price. $119 for the regular size and that came with a stuff sack. Sweet. It is comfortable, quiet, compact, and seems very durable. I say that because my old neoair the yellow one got several punctures during use in the field. And there is nothing worse than waking up to a flat or deflating sleeping pad. So check out this video review:
UPDATE: I just realized when taking these photos, that my original Neoair in Yellow is a 66" medium and weighs 13 oz. The new Neoair Trekker is 72" regular and weighs 20 oz. It also has an R-value of 2.0.
UPDATE: I just realized when taking these photos, that my original Neoair in Yellow is a 66" medium and weighs 13 oz. The new Neoair Trekker is 72" regular and weighs 20 oz. It also has an R-value of 2.0.
Wednesday, December 22, 2010
Topic Discussion - Tent/Shelter
Tents have been something I love to look at and explore the options available. There are several types that I know and consider let's look at those options:
This tent has been unstoppable for Annette and me. We used this through Europe camping on and off for months at a time. Then we got home and ran a whole season of mountain bike races in it. Then the tent was put away while I travelled for work. When we started back up camping, we noticed that the seam tape was peeling off the seams of the vestibule. So we contact MSR, at the suggestion of my buddy Aaron (smart guy). Low and behold, MSR replaced the vestibule after 2 years of ownership and thorough usage, for free. Regardless of the bulletproof background, we have just scrubbed this tent for a single walled tent that I will explain next. This tent is about 5 lbs in total, and that is pretty nice for the advanced double walled tent category. This tent is strong and stable and freestanding. These are big points for the Hubba Hubba, but weight and setup in the rain are 2 drawbacks that I have pondered time after time.
I consulted my buddy Aaron and he suggested the tent that he is currently using as his goto tent. The Six Moon Designs Lunar Duo. I first ordered the TarpTent Double Rainbow, but wanted to compare the Double Rainbow and the Lunar Duo, so I ordered it also. Comparing them side by side there are some specifics that are good for both. The Double Rainbow stands up to wind very well, and can be freestanding. Those are not big points for the Lunar Duo. It is not freestanding and more susceptible to wind. However, it can be staked out well, and do pretty darn good in most situations. But the Lunar Duo far exceeds the Double Rainbow in interior roominess and vestibule coverage. While the Double Rainbow is held up by the included pole, the Lunar Duo is held up by hiking poles. Let's look at a couple photos.
This is exactly what they look like, but this is not my photo. We got the Lunar Duo on the left in Green and we are planning on returning the Double Rainbow. It is a terrific quality tent, but did not meet our needs for the Appalachian Trail.
The next 2 categories I like to lump together. Tarps and Bivys. They are like peas and carrots. I will just show a quick picture and move on since I am not evolved to this point of simplicity yet. This setup is super small, uber light, and super easy to pack up and put away quickly. I hope for any PCT or CDT hikes that I move to this type of setup.
Tarps are simple and usually rely on hiking poles. Bivy sacks are just waterproof bags that you slip into to keep wetness/condensation/precipitation off of your sleeping bag. That moisture would make your sleeping bag incapable of keeping you warm. Some have bug netting and help eliminate pest issues like snakes, scorpions, and anything else that wants to visit you at night.
Hammocks are the last thing on the list. I don't use them, I have never used them, and I don't have any plans at this time to use them. It usually relys on you having trees to clip to so you can hang the hammock. Which can be a drawback if you were in the desert. However, it keeps you off the cold ground which can be a benefit. Basically, I don't use one, but there are pluses and minuses that I won't explore here. But I will give you a picture.
Stay tuned for my review of the tent we chose for our hike. The Six Moon Designs Lunar Duo.
- Double walled tent
- Single walled tent
- Tarp
- Bivy
- Hammock
There probably are more options or subdivisions, but I will leave it at these options. Since I was a younger man I have always had a double walled tent. My first tent I remember was double walled, but I cannot recall the brand or version name. Today though I currently have a double walled tent from MSR called a Hubba Hubba.
I consulted my buddy Aaron and he suggested the tent that he is currently using as his goto tent. The Six Moon Designs Lunar Duo. I first ordered the TarpTent Double Rainbow, but wanted to compare the Double Rainbow and the Lunar Duo, so I ordered it also. Comparing them side by side there are some specifics that are good for both. The Double Rainbow stands up to wind very well, and can be freestanding. Those are not big points for the Lunar Duo. It is not freestanding and more susceptible to wind. However, it can be staked out well, and do pretty darn good in most situations. But the Lunar Duo far exceeds the Double Rainbow in interior roominess and vestibule coverage. While the Double Rainbow is held up by the included pole, the Lunar Duo is held up by hiking poles. Let's look at a couple photos.
The next 2 categories I like to lump together. Tarps and Bivys. They are like peas and carrots. I will just show a quick picture and move on since I am not evolved to this point of simplicity yet. This setup is super small, uber light, and super easy to pack up and put away quickly. I hope for any PCT or CDT hikes that I move to this type of setup.
Stay tuned for my review of the tent we chose for our hike. The Six Moon Designs Lunar Duo.
Tuesday, December 21, 2010
Topic Discussion - Sleeping Pad
Sleeping pads are a split decision that every hiker will have to make. Several characteristics will help determine which one you will choose. There are 3 main categories.
When inflating you have to use between 15 and 20 breaths to fill up the pad. This can be extremely taxing after a long day of hiking or getting caught in a dark situation running out of light. Maybe you are at a high altitude and you might get light headed trying to inflate this sleeping pad. Plus, you cannot leave the sleeping pad unattended in specific situations. As noted in the picture above, this is what happens when the pressure in the air inside EXPANDS and breaks the baffles that are the key to the patented construction that Thermarest uses. This will cause a full failure in the sleeping pad and you could end up on the cold hard ground. I have actually seen this happen to the 2nd Neoair that I had. Lucky for me it inflated only a portion that honestly acted like a pillow. I learned my lesson on that one. If you are going to leave camp unattended for a day hike, open the valve and let it equalize.
In the end, I have decided to use the Neoair despite its shortcomings. However, I am going to upgrade to the newest Neoair that has a much heavier duty material and construction. It is called the Neoair Trekker and I just purchased it today. Here is are 2 links, one to purchase and one to a German review with upclose photos:
Buy here:
http://www.campmor.com/thermarest-neoair-trekker-air-mattress.shtml?source=CI&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=55182
Review here:
http://www.outdoorseiten.net/forum/showthread.php?45216-Therm-a-Rest-NeoAir-Trekker
- Closed Cell Foam or CCF
- Self inflating pads
- Air pads
I have tried 2 of the categories, and have yet to test out CCF. However the pluses for CCF are without a doubt one of the biggest pluses for all ground pads. They cannot deflate, because they do not require any air inflation.
Above are two examples of CCF. The Gossamer Gear thin light pad is grey. The Thermarest Z lite pad is orange and folds instead of rolls.
In the middle of the road there are the self expanding pads. These pads are filled with open cell foam. So when you unroll them and open the air inlet nozzle they begin to expand inside. This draws a good portion of the air needed to inflate them. However, this could take a few minutes depending on what type of pad, and how long it has been rolled up. You might have to give a few breaths after 20 minutes just to top it off and make sure it is firm. But we are talking 3 maybe 4.
On the other hand, if you want what is considered the maximum in sleeping luxury, combined with the maximum ultralight and ultra packable design, you need to consider air based sleeping pads. They pack up very small, and they are extremely comfortable when sticks or rocks are poking you in the back. I currently have the Neoair regular. I like it... in fact I love it... however, there are drawbacks. I have suffered from numerous air leaks and punctures and have lost most of the faith that this design is reliable in a thru-hike type scenario.
In the end, I have decided to use the Neoair despite its shortcomings. However, I am going to upgrade to the newest Neoair that has a much heavier duty material and construction. It is called the Neoair Trekker and I just purchased it today. Here is are 2 links, one to purchase and one to a German review with upclose photos:
Buy here:
http://www.campmor.com/thermarest-neoair-trekker-air-mattress.shtml?source=CI&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=55182
Review here:
http://www.outdoorseiten.net/forum/showthread.php?45216-Therm-a-Rest-NeoAir-Trekker
Thursday, December 9, 2010
Topic Discussion - Sleeping bag/system
With such a broad range of sleeping bags and the qualities that they bring to the table, it is a difficult choice. Especially with so many quality manufacturers. Although I am sure that they come from China, except for a few made in the USA. However, lets get to the categories and what choice I made, and why I made it.
Insulation is something that one has to choose:
Synthetic Insulation vs Goose Down Insulation = = = > Click HERE for a GUIDE!
Once you have chosen the type of insulation that works for you, next you will need to decide on shape. Three general shapes that I know of are:
Quilt type
Open top type
Mummy type
We chose the Montbell Super stretch down hugger #3 bag for our Appalachian Trail Thru-hike.
Insulation is something that one has to choose:
Synthetic Insulation vs Goose Down Insulation = = = > Click HERE for a GUIDE!
Once you have chosen the type of insulation that works for you, next you will need to decide on shape. Three general shapes that I know of are:
Quilt type
Open top type
Mummy type
We chose the Montbell Super stretch down hugger #3 bag for our Appalachian Trail Thru-hike.
- 30 degree rated bag
- Mummy Style which works best for us and our system
- Stitching is all made from a stretchable material that allows the bag to move WITH you as you move at night; helping to eliminate cold spots that normal bags would create. This means that since the bag does not stay close to your body... air is pulled into the cavity through the mummy opening which brings in chilled air. You can see it in the example photo below
- Lastly, should you need to you can close off the footbox with an adjustment shortening the bag and allowing you to have less space to heat and more insulation at the foot end of the bag.
Monday, December 6, 2010
Topic Discussion - Backpack
How you carry the things you take along is a huge choice these days. There are so many varied types of setups and so many criteria that help you decide what category you fall into with what you choose to take along. I have chosen my pack because it is what I consider a "cadillac" pack. Meaning it maximizes the comfort for the weight that I will be carrying.
My current expectation is to carry between 15 and 20 lbs of base weigh, but that will be determined in the end before I leave. It is hard to say at this point. However that 5 lb spread should leave me in a safe zone. My plan for food is to carry 10 to 15 lbs of food depending on what the situation is looking like. In order to put things into perspective one probably wants to count about 2 lbs per person per day, just in food. So that would be 10 lbs for 5 days and 14 lbs for 7 days. If you add together a base weight of 20 lbs, then food and water about 15 to 16 lbs, you end up with quite a load. 36 lbs is a lot of weight to be carrying. Hopefully in the end that will not be the case. The way I have researched this weight choice is by assessing a percentage of my body's weight. They say newbies should never go above 20% of their own body weight. I would consider myself an intermediate and I plan on never exceeding 25%. Currently weighing in at 155 lbs x 25% = 38.75 lbs. So 36 is just under, and that is my worst end all be all #. I hope to roll out with 15 lbs or less base, and 10 lbs food, and 2 lbs of water. That totals up at the beginning of the week at 27 lbs; by weeks end should be somewhere near 17-18 lbs. As we go through all the items in the list, we will weigh them and see how everything fits into the pack. What goes first and what stays outside... that sort of stuff. Personally I chose the Osprey because of the comfort to weight ratio. It is roughly 4.5 lbs itself, but the customization is terrific. Upon purchase they heat up the hip pads and then you put them on for 10 minutes and they MOLD to your body shape. That was one of the most terrific parts about the pack. To me the suspension fit me much better than many other packs in this class.
My pack is an Osprey Aether 70. So the following review can help break down a lot of the specific features. Things like volume, or weight, & all the numbers that people like to see. The 2010 model is different and the specifics might vary. REVIEW HERE.
As far as Photos, here they are:
My current expectation is to carry between 15 and 20 lbs of base weigh, but that will be determined in the end before I leave. It is hard to say at this point. However that 5 lb spread should leave me in a safe zone. My plan for food is to carry 10 to 15 lbs of food depending on what the situation is looking like. In order to put things into perspective one probably wants to count about 2 lbs per person per day, just in food. So that would be 10 lbs for 5 days and 14 lbs for 7 days. If you add together a base weight of 20 lbs, then food and water about 15 to 16 lbs, you end up with quite a load. 36 lbs is a lot of weight to be carrying. Hopefully in the end that will not be the case. The way I have researched this weight choice is by assessing a percentage of my body's weight. They say newbies should never go above 20% of their own body weight. I would consider myself an intermediate and I plan on never exceeding 25%. Currently weighing in at 155 lbs x 25% = 38.75 lbs. So 36 is just under, and that is my worst end all be all #. I hope to roll out with 15 lbs or less base, and 10 lbs food, and 2 lbs of water. That totals up at the beginning of the week at 27 lbs; by weeks end should be somewhere near 17-18 lbs. As we go through all the items in the list, we will weigh them and see how everything fits into the pack. What goes first and what stays outside... that sort of stuff. Personally I chose the Osprey because of the comfort to weight ratio. It is roughly 4.5 lbs itself, but the customization is terrific. Upon purchase they heat up the hip pads and then you put them on for 10 minutes and they MOLD to your body shape. That was one of the most terrific parts about the pack. To me the suspension fit me much better than many other packs in this class.
My pack is an Osprey Aether 70. So the following review can help break down a lot of the specific features. Things like volume, or weight, & all the numbers that people like to see. The 2010 model is different and the specifics might vary. REVIEW HERE.
As far as Photos, here they are:
Sunday, December 5, 2010
Topic Discussion - Footwear
Footwear is an extremely important consideration on the trail. You are going to need you feet to keep you going each and everyday. I looked at a few things when making my decisions as to the footwear choices I have made, however, I am going to cover as much of the decision making process as I can from the beginning.
There are several types of footwear when it comes to hiking, so lets list the various options to choose from and them we will expand from there on what properties are best for each type. (Definitions are from Wikipedia)
Mountaineering boots:
Mountaineering boots are usually taller, stiffer, and insulated. The boots can be made of leather, plastic, or modern synthetic materials like Kevlar. The extra height and stiffness of mountaineering boots helps support the climber in steep terrain where flexible boots could cause unsure footing and possibly result in a fall. This extra stiffness is traditionally achieved through the use of a full steel shank, though some manufacturers have begun to use carbon fiber to create the necessary stiffness. Mountaineering boots are typically designed to be used with crampons. The stiffness of the boot enhances the precision of the crampon and allows a climber to pursue steeper and more difficult terrain. (These will not be used on the Appalachian Trail Thru-hike; this would be overkill, it is too much boot)
(Pictures are of leather boot, synthetic boot, and crampons)
Hiking/Backpacking boots:
Hiking boots are constructed to provide comfort for miles of walking over rough terrains, and protect the hiker's feet against water, mud, rocks, and other wilderness obstacles. Hiking boots support the ankle to avoid twisting but should not restrict the ankle's movement much. They also must be fairly stiff to support the foot. A properly fitted boot and/or friction-reducing patches applied to troublesome areas can ensure protection against blisters and other discomforts associated with long hikes on rugged terrain.
(Pictures are of full leather boot, leather & synthetic boot, and full sythetic boot)
Trail runners:
Halfway between a running shoe and a hiking boot, these are specificially designed shoes that have aggressively knobby soles that are generally more rigid than road running shoes. The usually EVA compound midsole often contain a lightweight, flexible nylon plastic layer to protect the feet from puncture wounds from sharp rocks or other objects. Trail running shoes are low to the ground which provides the best stability on uneven terrain. (We chose trail runners from Gore-tex as the first boot starting from Springer Mountain, GA)
(Pictures are of the Trail runners that I chose: Vasque Velocity GTX)
Running Sneakers/Shoes:
Some hikers go with a shoe designed for long distance running, without any purpose for hiking. Some hikers feel that the lack of ankle support helps to strengthen their ankles. Some feel that they constantly breath easier and go without Gore-Tex fabric. Some hikers believe that Gore-Tex just cannot breathe enough under intense hiking conditions; as well some tend to experience that NON Gore-tex shoes DRY faster. Many days will be soaking wet on the trail and your boots could take days to dry, thus the NON Gore-tex would benefit in this situation. These types of shoes are usually made of flexible compounds, typically featuring a sole made of dense rubber. Usually an extremely light type of shoe that offer no puncture resistance or stiff type of sole. On the contrary, ususally they bend easily. (There is a good chance that we will move to an extremely light/comfortable NON Gore-tex running shoe in the summer; I hear some have done the hike in Chacos )
Camp shoes:
Usually this is a type of footwear that gives your feet a break after being trapped inside boots most of the time. Some hikers use Crocs. I personally don't like the Crocs because they are not the best all around solution for use when you are not hiking. For example if you are going to be in town or fording a river, yet don't want to get your boots wet... you can use something like I have chose. My choice is still going to dry very quickly. One of my other concerns was that they slipped on. When you put the back of the shoe down and stand on it... the shoe becomes a slip on.
(Salomon Techamphibian 2 shown below)
(This article will not cover FOOTCARE. We will cover that later. Most likely when we get to First Aid kit and First Aid itself)
There are several types of footwear when it comes to hiking, so lets list the various options to choose from and them we will expand from there on what properties are best for each type. (Definitions are from Wikipedia)
Mountaineering boots:
Mountaineering boots are usually taller, stiffer, and insulated. The boots can be made of leather, plastic, or modern synthetic materials like Kevlar. The extra height and stiffness of mountaineering boots helps support the climber in steep terrain where flexible boots could cause unsure footing and possibly result in a fall. This extra stiffness is traditionally achieved through the use of a full steel shank, though some manufacturers have begun to use carbon fiber to create the necessary stiffness. Mountaineering boots are typically designed to be used with crampons. The stiffness of the boot enhances the precision of the crampon and allows a climber to pursue steeper and more difficult terrain. (These will not be used on the Appalachian Trail Thru-hike; this would be overkill, it is too much boot)
(Pictures are of leather boot, synthetic boot, and crampons)
Hiking/Backpacking boots:
Hiking boots are constructed to provide comfort for miles of walking over rough terrains, and protect the hiker's feet against water, mud, rocks, and other wilderness obstacles. Hiking boots support the ankle to avoid twisting but should not restrict the ankle's movement much. They also must be fairly stiff to support the foot. A properly fitted boot and/or friction-reducing patches applied to troublesome areas can ensure protection against blisters and other discomforts associated with long hikes on rugged terrain.
(Pictures are of full leather boot, leather & synthetic boot, and full sythetic boot)
Trail runners:
Halfway between a running shoe and a hiking boot, these are specificially designed shoes that have aggressively knobby soles that are generally more rigid than road running shoes. The usually EVA compound midsole often contain a lightweight, flexible nylon plastic layer to protect the feet from puncture wounds from sharp rocks or other objects. Trail running shoes are low to the ground which provides the best stability on uneven terrain. (We chose trail runners from Gore-tex as the first boot starting from Springer Mountain, GA)
(Pictures are of the Trail runners that I chose: Vasque Velocity GTX)
Running Sneakers/Shoes:
Some hikers go with a shoe designed for long distance running, without any purpose for hiking. Some hikers feel that the lack of ankle support helps to strengthen their ankles. Some feel that they constantly breath easier and go without Gore-Tex fabric. Some hikers believe that Gore-Tex just cannot breathe enough under intense hiking conditions; as well some tend to experience that NON Gore-tex shoes DRY faster. Many days will be soaking wet on the trail and your boots could take days to dry, thus the NON Gore-tex would benefit in this situation. These types of shoes are usually made of flexible compounds, typically featuring a sole made of dense rubber. Usually an extremely light type of shoe that offer no puncture resistance or stiff type of sole. On the contrary, ususally they bend easily. (There is a good chance that we will move to an extremely light/comfortable NON Gore-tex running shoe in the summer; I hear some have done the hike in Chacos )
Camp shoes:
Usually this is a type of footwear that gives your feet a break after being trapped inside boots most of the time. Some hikers use Crocs. I personally don't like the Crocs because they are not the best all around solution for use when you are not hiking. For example if you are going to be in town or fording a river, yet don't want to get your boots wet... you can use something like I have chose. My choice is still going to dry very quickly. One of my other concerns was that they slipped on. When you put the back of the shoe down and stand on it... the shoe becomes a slip on.
(Salomon Techamphibian 2 shown below)
(This article will not cover FOOTCARE. We will cover that later. Most likely when we get to First Aid kit and First Aid itself)
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